It's not every day that you're at a dinner party and the following is uttered: "I grew up eating lungs ... but I like the ears better than the lungs."
We're talking pig's lungs (and ears), of course. In this case, the ears come pan-fried, bearing a delicious lemongrass-peanut crust, beautifully sliced and plated with a vibrant green mache salad.
No matter how pretty the plate, it's hard to get over the fact that you're eating pig's ears, however. Biting through the crunchy cartilage -- a sensation that's akin to what I imagine gnawing on a rubber hose would feel like -- is a challenge. But Chef Simpson is experimenting and we're all his Easter dinner guinea pigs so, really, there's no complaining allowed. (Well, you could complain but it might earn you a second helping of pig's ears.)
Things improve exponentially with the second app: mussel fritters served with a laksa panna cotta. (Laksa, for those who did not growing up eating this spicy, coconutty curry soup noodle dish from Southeast Asia, is gaining popularity with foodlovers in the U.S., according to a January New York Times story.) The fritters are an interesting variation on the usual shrimp or fish fritters you see on menus everywhere and the curried panna cotta is a truly unusual pairing.
Next up: Cha ca la vong, a signature Hanoi dish. This New York version features noodles topped with turmeric-seasoned pan-fried hake, cilantro, sawtooth coriander, peanuts, fried shallots, sunflower sprouts and grated salted cod that's then drizzled with fish sauce and a touch of chili sauce.
The final dish: Steak with fried, chopped-up banana flowers and ramps, doused in a veal-pineapple gravy. (Banana flowers, used as a vegetable in countries like Sri Lanka and Thailand, are a slightly bitter take on the usual frites that accompany steak.)
For dessert, a little something I made: Pandan-flavored banana chocolate cake. (Pandan leaves are commonly used in Southeast Asian desserts -- the flavor is similar to vanilla but is more complex.) You can tell from the exciting presentation that I'm a total pro at this "making food for other people" thing. Putting the actual Pyrex baking dish on the table! It's so brilliantly stylish Jean-Georges could learn a thing or two from this blog, I tell you...
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